But this time in March.
Nell Frizzell
When you put politics and fashion together, you tend to be met with a wardrobe of well-worn tropes.
One: The Wives. Despite the increasing number of women throwing themselves in to the dust, sweat and toil of politics, this election, it seems, we will be bombarded by a dress-by-dress comparison of Sarah Brown, Samantha Cameron and Miriam Gonzalez Durantez (yes, Nick Clegg has a wife too, wouldjabelieve it).
Two: Ethical fashion. Is your cotton organic? Has your garment been made using child labour? Is your denim dye poisoning rivers? Has your beading been sewn on by a seven-year-old? Important questions, of course, but ones that are all too often used by fashion journalism for a bit of tokenistic green-washing
Three: Slogan t-shirts. From the AIDS awareness days of Katherine Hamnett to the totally castrated re-working by Henry Holland, for many people a message is best delivered by a pair of breasts.
Which brings me on to the main thrust of today’s dressing-down. Someone bled the politics out of fashion. Don’t get me wrong – the pale and waxy corpse is still there, it just doesn’t have any real message pumping through its veins. Instead of Choose Life, we’re now told to Save the Rave. A phrase that evoked fears about drugs, AIDS and war has been replaced by faux nostalgia over 90s dance music.
They may not know it, but most fashion-conscious young women are currently dressing like radical feminists of the late 1980s. Ripped tights, heavy black boots, undercuts, little floral dresses with heavy woollen cardigans, big t-shirts and lycra leggings. These were once the hallmarks of a strong, feminist, alternative fashion movement; a reaction against the sharp-shouldered, ultra-feminine couture of supermodels like Jerry Hall.
Now, however, these symbols of once-subversive gender politics have been plucked and drained like your finest Halal chicken. Denim cut-offs have got shorter, armpits have got balder, tops have got more see-through, slogans have become meaningless, legs are smooth and of course, all too often the person wearing it is “not a feminist…but”.
Of course, fashion has commodified and tranquilised the radical in order to sell it to the mainstream for years. The gender-bending, histrionic glamour of the Blitz club was sold on the highstreet in frilly shirts and buckled shoes. The anti-fashion look of Seattle grunge became Avril Lavigne.
But it is particularly odd that at a time when feminism is so often dismissed or disregarded by young women (who presumably find the idea of equal pay for equal work, equal opportunities and education, access to contraception and freedom from sexual abuse ‘a bit passe’) so many of them look like sexed up members of a CND march.
Like the snake that is forced to sink its fangs in to wood, the lesbian-friendly, feminist garb of the late 80s has lost its bite. And that leaves a rather nasty taste in my mouth.
Nell Frizzell
I don’t know if I’ve ever mentioned this before, but when she was at school my mum was served the most amazing array of puddings.
Not amazing in the culinary sense. Due to an apparent world surfeit of suet and jam during the 1950s, most of her puddings were as stodgy and dimpled as a school girl’s thigh.
No, what was amazing were the names these puddings were given:
Mixed Bathing
Spotted Dick
Swiss Roll
Dead Man’s Leg
I kid you not. They were served up a rolled suet-sponge and jam affair affectionately known to them as Dead Man’s Leg. Suddenly William Golding doesn’t seem such a visionary, does he?
Apparently, Mixed Bathing was something to do with fruit floating in custard, Spotted Dick as you probably all know involves currants and Arctic Roll is iced penguin, cut in to slices.
Nell Frizzell
As your friendly neighbourhood feminist I am often asked what the ‘big issues’ in modern feminism are. Often I’m asked it like this:
“Haven’t you got bras to be burning, racehorses to throw yourself in front of, etc?”
To which, of course, I answer
“Oh come on, feminism has moved on loads since the suffragettes. These days we burn breast implants and throw ourselves under Qashqais” (which, by the way, are cars for cunts and should be banned.)
But let us be serious for a moment.
Equal pay
Sex trafficking
Domestic violence
Rape conviction rates
These are some of the issues that still need attention. So, here is a conversation in which a pillar of the society and I Sort It Out.
Few music videos have had a greater, and more unexpected, effect on fashion than Dexy’s Mignight Runner’s demin-clad, boot-stomping, street-corner fiddling ‘Come on Eileen’. Don’t believe me? Just check out Ralph Lauren’s new denim dungarees for this season. That’s right, dungarees. On show at Roberto Cavalli, Rouland Mouret and Jean Paul Gautier. They’ve even made it on to the front cover of Vogue. Everyone’s favourite over-the-shoulder, bib-fronted slice of ye olde workwear is back like it’s Depression-era Iowa.
Of course, since Kevin Rowland looked wistfully through the chicken-wire at Eileen in 1982, dungarees haven’t really ever gone away; they’ve been a vital part of the uniform for painters, carpenters, mechanics and factory workers all over the world. But the reason that they’re making their mark on the fashion scene once again is that, while being about as handy as a multi-head screwdriver, they won’t make you look like a bag of spanners. Unlike their sleeved cousins, the overall or all-in-one, dungarees leave just enough on show to keep things interesting.
Which old Eileen knew only too well, as she stomped through Kennington in her rolled-up dungarees, naked as the day she was born under those denim straps. Kevin and his chums may have been dancing like horses at a dressage event, and their combination of slip-on brogues without socks and little woolly hats may be very fashion-forward in an East London chic sort of way, but it is Eileen’s sexy mixing of traditional masculine work wear with a feminine flirtatiousness that translates best to catwalk designs.
So, let’s hear it for elasticated straps, holster pockets, knee pads and, dare I say it, a reinforced yoke.
Nell Frizzell
Remember the scene in Dumbo when our elephantine hero is getting jostled, judged and jived by a gaggle of too-cool-for-school crows? Well, that my friends, is London Fashion Week. For one week of every year, London is swooped upon by a gaggle of fashion’s finest crows. Everywhere you look there is what Dylan Thomas would no doubt have called a “sloeblack, slow, black, crow black, front row black nodding sea”.
The reason for this pitchy invasion is two-fold. Firstly, fashion loves black. This year, designers from Christopher Kane and Antonion Berardi to Mark Fast and Betty Jackson have all flocked to black like bats at dawn. Whether it’s knitted, leather or feathered, the people behind the cutting patterns have chosen their hue and they’re sticking to it.
Secondly, fashion journalists love black. In black you can be inconspicuous whilst still being on trend. You can be demure and de rigueur. You can run through puddles and trek across muddy pavements. And most of all, in black, you can take the tube from show to show and it still won’t show on your clothes.
Which is why I am going to work tomorrow dressed as as Darth Moor. Well, if you can’t beat ‘em, maul ‘em.
Nell Frizzell
This morning I was greeted by an email from eBay. Apparently, I could get treated like a princess with amazing deals on purses, netbooks, luxury watches, women’s trainers, baby clothing, engagement rings, undies, lego and a disney bathrobe and slipper set.
Hmmmm.
Now, I was under the impression that these email whodyamaflits were in some way based on your previous online activity; that the recommendations were tailored to your specific purchasing or searching habits. Considering the fact that I last searched eBay for a cheap pair of riding boots and high-vis bicycle tape, I’m guessing that their tracking technology isn’t going to pose any immediate threat to the Pentagon.
For all the likelihood that these emails were going to lead to me actually buying anything, they might as well have recommended beard trimmers, an angle grinder, an eat-yourself-fat casette course and a set of wing mirrors.
Nell Frizzell
So, what’s a little hair between friends? Take a short-course in weaving and it could be the very fabric holding your friendship together.
A couple of weeks ago I was invited to an 80s film-themed party. Naturally, I decided to go as Tom Cruise in Risky Business. I considered Clubber Lang, Apollo Creed, Tango, or possibly Cash; but nothing else offered quite the maniacal-grinning-sexually-ambiguous-wedge-trainered pull of the Cruisemeister.
The only small problem is that the outfit in question is rather lacking in the old trouser department (I make absolutely no reference to Cruise, or any Cruise-related appendage of course – we’re talking pants here). Not a problem for your average Josephine, judging by this years’ Brits. From Florence’s leotard to Lily’s knickers to Gaga’s ice skating take on Miss Haversham I’ve seen more naked thighs in 2010 than your average gynaecologist.